We already have an article on our website devoted to the question of how to make a pattern for a half-sun skirt. There are also some small tips from a technologist on how to sew a skirt cut on the bias. But to make sewing a skirt with your own hands as easy as possible, we suggest calculating the skirt directly on the fabric, without creating a paper pattern.
To cut a circle skirt on fabric, you will need a wide table or other flat surface.
This version of the skirt cut is best suited for a girl, since the length of the skirt with this layout is limited and depends primarily on the measurement St (half waist circumference).
The standard fabric consumption for a skirt with this cutting method is 150cm, provided that the width of the fabric is also 150cm.
The length of a skirt without elastic can reach 75cm, but a skirt with an elasticated belt will be shorter and depends on the overall width of the waistband gathers.
In this video you will learn how easy it is to make a skirt pattern for a girl directly on the fabric. The technology of sewing a children's skirt with an elastic band instead of a belt is also shown.
How to fold fabric for cutting a circle skirt
Clear an area of 2 meters by 2 meters on the floor. Prepare chalk, tape measure, ruler and scissors. Lay out the piece of fabric with the wrong side facing the floor.
Now fold the fabric of a girl’s skirt (with a skirt length of up to 75cm) in half, from corner to corner, as shown in this photo. We'll talk about how to cut a larger skirt a little lower.
Then pin the cross and lobe sides of the fabric together with pins (edge and cut). Pinning is not necessary, but it is advisable.
To pattern this half-sun skirt, you need to know 2 measurements: waist circumference, more precisely 1/2 of the waist circumference St and skirt length Du. If you don't know how to take measurements accurately, see How to Take Measurements.
It is precisely this segment that we set aside from the folding corner of the fabric. However, do not forget about the allowances for sewing the side seams. It is impossible to assemble such a skirt with one seam; at least two seams will be needed. With one seam you can connect a circle skirt cut from a square of fabric 150 by 150 cm.
Draw a chalk line from the cut edge at a distance of 1.5 cm. And you start counting the segment R not from the very corner of the fabric, but from the intersection of the allowance line and the fold of the fabric.
It is not at all difficult to determine the hem line of the bottom of the skirt. Using a centimeter, mark off pieces of the skirt length from the resulting waist line, for example 70cm, but do not rush to trace the dotted line. There are several nuances to consider.
First, you need to measure the distance diagonally (the folding line of the fabric) and make sure that the remaining piece of fabric is enough for the other half of the skirt. Secondly, if you make a skirt with an elasticated belt, you will have to increase St by the amount of gathering. This means that the R value will change, the radius will become larger and the waistline will drop a little lower, which means the length of the skirt will also change. And the third thing you need to pay attention to is the amount of hem of the bottom of the skirt. But fortunately, for such models of skirts cut on the bias, the hem is minimal - 1 cm.
You will already make the second half of the skirt without comment. The only thing you should pay attention to is the pattern of the fabric. Even though we used plaid fabric for this tutorial, try to avoid such fabrics. The cage is very difficult to fit and almost always the fabric consumption for sewing such a skirt will be higher.
Now all that remains is to cut out the details of the skirt pattern, not forgetting to make allowances, and you can start sewing. True, we haven’t cut out the belt yet, but first we need to choose what kind of belt it will be. The belt of a half-sun skirt can be made stitched, with a yoke, with an elastic band, or a skirt can be sewn without a belt at all.
Skirt pattern - pencil. Very simple construction, accessible for beginners. The video is in English, but you can choose captions in any other language. If you like to sew, be sure to subscribe to this video channel. You will learn a lot of useful things. The channel was created by professional tailors.
Video on how to make a counter pleat for a skirt.
We sew a tweed half-sun skirt with our own hands without patterns!
We will need:
- Tweed-1.7m
- Lining fabric-70cm
- Dress zipper-20cm
- Threads in tweed color
- See tape
- Ruler
- And your patience!
1. My tweed is made of natural wool, so it first needs to be decated (WTO-wet heat treatment). We moistened all the fabric with a spray bottle and stretched the fabric through wet gauze. Next, let it dry
2. Measure the length, how much the fabric has shrunk after decating.
3. Let's start cutting.
We choose any shared thread. Lay out the fabric. If you have thin, soft and slippery fabric, then it is better to pin it with pins when laying out the fabric so that the fabric does not warp. With woolen and dense fabrics, this is not a problem for you.
4. I chose my own fabric, folded the fabric in half like this
To find out the radius of the half-sun skirt, we need to multiply the half-waist circumference by 0.64. That is, according to the formula St *0.64 = Radius of the half-sun. I have a skirt with side seams, because... The tweed fabric is quite thick and loose, so a belt with an elastic band would look rough. I make a classic belt on a skirt with a zipper. If you have enough fabric and it is not dense, then you can make a one-piece skirt and then put the belt on an elastic band.
5. We found the radius, set it aside from the corner, like mine, on both sides (on the side along the cut and along the fold, leaving 1.5 cm for allowance. Draw an arc. Straighten the arc a little closer to the fold so that the hem of the skirt is even. This there will be a waist line of one panel of the skirt
6. Front panel of the skirt.
From the waist line we set aside the desired length. Here you need to be careful so that you have enough fabric for the second panel of the skirt. My fabrics are close together, because... I take the length of the skirt to be 80 cm, long enough (midi length) I set aside 80 cm along the fold (let's call this the center of the front panel of the skirt). Along the cut (in the future, the side seam) I set aside 78 cm (in any skirt, the center will be longer than the sides of the skirt. On average, the difference is 2 cm). We connect, draw an arc. Leave 2-3 cm for hem. This will be the hem of the skirt.
If you doubt the correctness of the drawn arc, measure again, setting aside the desired length from the waist line, only from different points of the waist line.
The side seam allowance is 1.2-1.5 cm, also depending on the fabric. For me it is loose and loose, so I take allowances with a reserve.
7. Back panel of the skirt.
Now let's cut the second panel (let's call it the back panel of the skirt). The same way the fabric lay when laying out (in the 2nd photo above), I adjust the fabric so that the fabric lies the same way as when laying out for the first time (sharp corner). We take the front panel (in the same condition as we cut it out), put it on top of the fabric on which we will cut the back panel and translate it :), like a pattern. Mark seam allowances and hem allowances. We cut it out. The back panel is ready!
8. Belt.
I cut it from leftover fabric. According to the rules, the belt should be cut along the lobar. That is, along the fabric (parallel to the edge). I didn't have much fabric left, so I broke this rule and cut the waistband crosswise (that is, perpendicular to the hem). Then I compensated for this at the expense of the doubler, which I cut according to the rules :), according to the share. Belt length = waist circumference plus clasp 3 cm plus 1 cm allowance. I take the width of the belt to be 4 cm, i.e. cut 10 cm (4 cm plus 4 cm plus 2 cm allowance)
The skirt was cut.
9. Lining.
You need to cut it a little wider and shorter than your skirt. In this case, we have a half-sun, there is no need to cut the lining with a half-sun. It will be enough to cut out a rectangle, 5 cm or more wider than the hips. This is necessary for freedom of movement and in case the lining shrinks after washing. You can narrow it a little at the waist, but so that the waist on the lining remains wider than the waist on the main fabric. It is important.
I fold the fabric in half, then in half again. I mark the line of the waist, hips, bottom. I leave seam allowances. 1cm each I'm cutting it out. The length of my lining is 70cm, 10cm less than the skirt itself.
Usually, I assemble the lining right away. I baste all the cuts. I'm grinding. I fold the hem of the petticoat, making a hem seam, or I overcast the hem, bend it 1 cm and adjust it.
10. Assembling the belt.
My belt came from several pieces, so the first thing I do is assemble the belt, duplicating every detail of the belt. I'm grinding. I iron out the seams.
11. Processing of slices.
I process all the cuts with an overlock on the front and back panels of the skirt, the lining, and the waistband.
12. Stitch the seams.
I sew the side seams of the skirt, pulling the fabric down a little from the waist. From the waistline on the left seam, I leave (do not stitch) a space for the zipper of 15-20 cm. I iron the seams, pulling them a little.
13. Sew on the zipper.
The place where the zipper was sewn in was duplicated with adhesive tape (non-woven fabric or thin dublerin) - this will prevent the fabric from stretching when sewing in.
I open the zipper. To the fold of the back panel, face up, at a distance from the fold to the zipper links of 0.1-0.2 mm, at the top from the cut to the slider I leave 1 cm (for sewing the belt) I baste one half of the zipper.
I close the zipper and baste the second half of the zipper to the front panel of the skirt, making a strip (from the fold at a distance of 0.7 cm-1.5 cm - this is our strip). The zipper should not be visible when closed. The placket should cover the side seam of the back panel of the skirt. I'm sewing on the zipper. I secure the end of the zipper with a horizontal stitch with a double stitch, connecting the 1st and 2nd halves.
14. Sew the lining.
Back to back of the skirt! To the side seam allowances of the skirt where the zipper is located (so that the lining does not get caught in the zipper links when unfastening and fastening.
I fold the lining and skirt seam allowances where the zipper is, face to face. I stitch on both sides of the fastener along the zipper braid, but not close to its links, finishing the line a little above the end of the size for the fastener.
From the wrong side, carefully iron the fastener through the ironing iron.
15. The lining at our waist should be slightly larger than the waist on the main fabric. We fold the excess into small folds or make a small gathering. Tweed is a thick fabric, so don’t be afraid, folds and gathers won’t be noticeable! You can do this with an additional stitch, stitching the lining to the top of the skirt. I didn’t do this line, but did it right away when I was sewing the belt to the skirt.
16. Sew on the belt.
When sewing the belt to the skirt, on one side of the belt I leave a seam allowance of 1-1.2 cm, on the other side an allowance for the fastener of 2-3 cm. We place the belt face to face with the skirt. Sew 1-1.2 cm from the cut and 1-2 cm from the beginning of the skirt
The left edge of the belt, I stitch with the letter “G” (starting from the fold, I sew the edge of the belt 1 cm from the edge, not reaching the end 1.5 cm, I raise the foot, turn the belt 90 degrees and lay a line right up to the beginning of the line with which we sewed the belt with the skirt (allowance for the fastener) 2.5 cm by 1 cm from the cut of the belt. I trim the corner a little to remove the thickness and make it easier to turn the resulting allowance inside out.
Right edge of the belt. Fold the edge of the belt back to back, folding the edge of the belt by 1 cm (it should remain inside and stitching 0.1-0.2 mm from the edge of the hem of the right edge of the belt.
I fold the waistband in half and iron the seam up (toward the waistband). The loose section of the belt is already hemmed! I bend it in half. I place it on the sewing seam, so that the free cut of the belt is 1 cm below the seam of sewing the belt to the skirt. I pin along the seam of attaching the belt to the skirt.
On the front side I put a finishing stitch in the stitching seam or 0.1 along the waistband.
17. Install the clasp.
I put a hook on the belt clasp. We attach it when our belt is not yet completely stitched to the skirt. It is secured on the wrong side of the belt. You can punch a loop and sew on a button. The loop is made from the right edge of the belt. A button is sewn on the left edge. It's up to you.
18. Sew the hem of the skirt.
We overcast the hem of the skirt (with an overlocker), bend it 1.5 cm and add a machine finishing stitch.
Important! When folding the hem of the skirt, do not pull the fabric. You have a semi-sun, which means that you will need to gather up the cut of the hem of the skirt a little so that the front side of the hem of the skirt lies smoothly.
Our skirt is ready! If you have any questions: write.
Best wishes, Indira Emutbaeva
Because of its successful shape, this skirt was so extremely popular in the 1950s that even today there are many variations of the design: with elastic, with a delicate or wide belt, with a yoke with a button or zipper, with a wrap. The length is different. In warm weather, thin fabrics are used: cotton, satin, silk, in cold weather - wool, jacquard, corduroy.
This style is perfect for both curvy and slender women. Dense fabrics visually enlarge narrow hips and hide a more feminine figure. A large pattern (geometry or flowers) is not suitable for crumpets. Monochromatic models or with small prints would be more suitable.
The difference between this style and the circle skirt is that when unfolded, this skirt is only half a circle, while the circle skirt is a whole circle.
For beginners, step-by-step pattern instructions
- You need to prepare a measuring tape, chalk, thick paper for the pattern, and fabric.
- Taking measurements from the figure: FROM– waist circumference, Du– length of the product (skirt). For example: FROM– 94 cm, Du– 86 cm.
- The fabric consumption for cutting depends on the material and type of cut of the skirt. When cutting the product in the usual way, the length of the material is equal to two lengths of the skirt plus 10 -15 centimeters. It is more compact to create one skirt piece from two quarter parts, with two seams on the sides. One seam will be cut along the grain of the fabric, and the second along the transverse thread. Fabrics with complex patterns require cutting in a single semicircle, due to the difference in pattern on the side seams.
- Pattern construction stage.
Calculate the radius of the circle for drawing the waist
R1=OT/3.14= 94/3.14=30 cm.
To shape the hemline
R2= R1+Du=30+86=116 cm.
On the left side of the paper we make a 90º angle with the beginning at the highest point of the sheet. From this vertex, set the distances to the right and downwards R1 And R2. We connect and draw a waist - an arc of a circle with a radius R1. Then, in the same way, we draw an arc of a circle with a radius R2- hem of the skirt. Cut out the paper pattern.
Ready-made half-sun skirt For the convenience of applying the pattern to the fabric in some cases ( plaid fabric, striped) you need to prepare two absolutely identical paper patterns.
If you wish, you can purchase an issue of the magazine “Burda” and use a ready-made pattern, having previously selected the required size.
- After selecting the required share thread, lay out the material. We fold the fabric in half lengthwise with the right side inward, take the left corner of the folded fabric into account as the center of the circle and apply one paper pattern so that one side seam is identical to the fold of the fabric - we get a skirt with one seam. On the opposite side of the fabric it is worth drawing the same detail. For a skirt with two seams, it is necessary to place the patterns on the fabric in a mirror order according to Fig. 2.
- Before cutting the fabric, you need to pin the paper pattern to it and secure it with pins so that it does not move when you start cutting with scissors. We draw out the pattern, not forgetting about the allowances on all seams - 1.5 cm.
- The specific cut of the skirt creates some difficulties in connecting the parts.
Despite the standard cut rule, skirt modifications are extremely diverse.
To sew a half-sun skirt quickly and easily, you need to make a pattern that includes one seam at the back (see point 3). Or cut out two parts, baste, and then sew everything except the back seam. Overlock and smooth out the back seam allowances, and sew a hidden fastener here. Fold the bottom of the skirt 1.5 cm and finish with a seam. You can optionally sew a belt into the upper part of the product.
It’s even easier to sew such a skirt for a girl with an elastic band with your own hands. This does not require a fastener or zipper and the most precise fit at the waist. The simplest option is to cut out the product for sewing in one seam (see point 3) and sew in an elastic band instead of a belt. The waist size should allow you to wear the product without a fastener. Therefore, we will increase the waist length by at least 15-20 cm, which allows the skirt to fit to the waist. To get a full skirt, you need to multiply FROM twice (at least).
If the size of the material makes it possible, then a half-sun skirt can be made to the floor with one seam. Before cutting, the material must be folded in half (see Fig. 1). The material width of 140 cm allows you to cut the product not in the transverse direction, but in the longitudinal direction. To calculate the length of the material you will need: two measurements R2(see point 3) plus allowances - 3 cm. Total length of fabric without a pattern is needed: 116 * 2 + 3 = 235 cm.
Skirt made of checkered fabric (medium or large). In order to match the pattern on the seams, the consumption of fabric in the cage must be increased by the size of the pattern repeat. Information about the pattern and the order of work is indicated in paragraph 3, in Fig. 2.
To make a checkered skirt in one seam, you need to move the pattern (Fig. 1) vertically until the pattern in the corners fits into similar stripes of the pattern. When folding the fabric, we connect the image of the layers of fabric.
However, the section of the cell will most likely be asymmetrical, and only the key, most basic stripes will match. Narrow, smaller stripes in a checkered pattern will not fit together. In order to clearly match the pattern of such fabric, it is necessary to cut out the product in two seams and place the pattern on the material as shown in Fig. 3. The pattern is selected by cuts: the left cut of the front panel of the pattern to the left of the rear panel, and accordingly the right cuts according to this system. For convenience, take a reference point to the lower parts of the skirt pattern. The consumption of fabric for such a skirt made of checkered fabric will be greater depending on the width of the repeat pattern of the checkered pattern.
If the skirt is made of striped fabric, on one edge the image will appear along the seam, and on the other, on the contrary, along the length of the fabric. It is possible to change the seams so that they are front and back (there are no seams on the side). Another option for cutting a striped knitted skirt (see Fig. 4): not from the left corner (like previous modifications), but along the width of the fabric, in the direction of the main thread. In this case, on the two seams located in front and behind the product, there will be a junction of the strips at an angle to each other.
To make a half-sun skirt with a belt, you need to cut the belt with twice the width along the grain of the fabric (parallel to the hem). Next, you need to grind down the sections of the belt in height, leaving a space without stitching to be able to thread an elastic band inside the belt. We sew the bent belt in half widthwise to the top of the skirt, making two synchronous lines at the same distance along the width of the elastic to accommodate it. At the final stage, we level the bottom of the product and process it either with an overlocker or stitch it.
You will need 3 meters of fabric with a width of 150 cm, an elastic band, and we also take one measurement - this is the length of the skirt from the waist to the floor. For skirts of this cut there is no need to make a paper pattern; cutting is done directly on the fabric. A piece of fabric needs to be folded in half to form a square. Since the skirt has an elastic band, precise construction of the circle is not required, we simply measure 2 points from the edge along the fold - 10 cm and 80 cm, and from the adjacent side along the edge we also measure 10 and 80 cm. In order to draw a semicircle, you need to take a centimeter tape , attach one end of it to the corner of the pattern - at this point the tape will be in place, and draw the other end of the centimeter tape like a compass, marking the dotted lines, and then connect them. In this way we mark the large and small semicircle of the pattern. Next, draw a diagonal from corner to corner so that it divides the semicircle of the skirt in half. Cutting out the skirt. We sew and process the seams. We sew a belt into the upper section where we will insert the elastic band. This was a brief description, but for more details on how to sew a belt and cut out a skirt, see the video below.
Tailoring is an interesting activity that allows you to add your own flavor and uniqueness. This article will discuss in detail, as well as which material to choose. Here are the rules for calculations and measurements for sewing.
What type of figure would suit this type of skirt?
The circle skirt is a unique style that suits almost everyone. Different models can easily help hide wide hips and also emphasize the waist. Flared skirts are ideal for those with an inverted triangle figure. Plain dark items below the knees will help hide the wide part of the figure.
What fabric is suitable for a skirt of this style?
A convenient material for such a cut is considered to be fabric made from natural ingredients.
- Silk. Despite the beauty of the product, it is the most inconvenient material for sewing.
- Synthetic fabrics. Used only for evening dresses.
- Skirts made of fine wool. It is a universal option for the cool season. Seam processing is mandatory.
- Cotton material. Does not require overcasting of edges provided the cut is closed.
In a skirt made of thin fabric, the seams cannot be closed, so you need to overlay them.
Variety of models
Despite the fact that all models are based on the same cutting principle, they have noticeable differences: length, fabric, waistline, etc. There are also models with elastic, a wide or thin belt, with side fasteners (zippers, hooks ).
Let's take a closer look at some models.
How to sew a half-sun skirt (with a belt) with a yoke.
It itself is a circle of fabric with a hole in the middle. This neckline is the waistline. For a skirt with a yoke, measure not the waist line, but the hip line. The following measurements are taken:
- waist circumference (from);
- product length (Di);
- hip circumference (Ob).
Calculate the internal (R 1) and external (R 2) radii of the circle using the formulas:
R 1 = (2 Rev - 2) / 2 * 3.14 (pi number).
R 2 = Di + R 1
The inner radius (R 1) must be expanded on each side by 1 cm.
In such a model, the yoke will imitate a belt. Knitted fabric is used for it. The pattern has the shape of a trapezoid, where the top is the half-circumference of the waist, and the bottom is the half-circumference of the hips. Its height does not exceed 20 cm.
How to sew a circle skirt (with a belt) with one seam.
Such a lightweight model can be cut directly onto the material. To do this, you need to prepare a fabric where the length of the product is multiplied by 2. And the width is calculated as follows: length of the skirt + radius of the notch for the waist + additional 6 cm.
The material is folded inside out and the pattern line is aligned with the fold of the fabric. The pattern is attached to the canvas with needles. The pattern is outlined with chalk, not forgetting about the allowances. They should be at the waist, sides and bottom (up to 2 cm). Carefully cut out the part so as not to damage the fabric.
How to sew a half-sun skirt (with a belt) with two seams.
The pattern of such a skirt is very easy to make. Take measurements and make cutting according to the above instructions. There should be two parts. Then a pattern is made. It is taken into account. The material is laid out on the wrong side, the pattern is pinned and outlined with chalk. The pattern is pinned in a mirror on the other side. It is also outlined with chalk. Carefully cut out both parts and sew them together.
How to sew a half-sun skirt (with a belt) with pleats.
To build such a model, I make calculations, where the main parameter from which they start is
According to personal measurements, a pattern in the form of a rectangle is drawn on the wrong side of the material. Use chalk to indicate the number of desired folds in the form of verticals to the bottom edge. To find them on the fabric, the canvas (according to the number of marks) is divided into even parts. Find the center of the fold and divide each half into three parts. Next they are folded like an accordion. After all the parts are assembled, retreat no more than 10 cm from the edge and secure with fine stitching. Carefully iron and stitch.
How to make a belt
The fabric is folded in half and a slightly curved rectangle is drawn with chalk. Its length is equal to: waist circumference plus 5 cm, and also add 2 cm to allowances on all sides. Next, exactly the same rectangle is cut out of non-woven fabric. Iron it to the wrong side of the fabric. The interlining should stick. Sew the two parts of the belt together and turn them inside out.
Half-sun skirt: pattern, fabric calculation, measurements
Fabric calculation:
- Measurements are taken of the waist circumference (F) and the length of the product (Di).
- The length of the fabric is equal to two lengths of the future skirt.
- The radius of the waist notch is added to the length of the product, the resulting number will be the width.
Half-sun skirt pattern (calculation using formulas):
- Calculate half the waist circumference and determine the length of the skirt.
- Next, calculate the radius of the notch for the waist where the belt will be sewn. The formula is used: 1/3 * Sweat + 1 cm (Sweat - half waist circumference). The resulting number is multiplied by 2 and subtracted 2 cm.
- The patterns will consist of two semicircles. Small radius (From) - R 1, large radius (length of the product and the distance from its edge to the waist) - R 2.
R 1 = From / 3.14
R 2 = Di + R 1
Skirt with elastic
The easiest option for beginners is a half-sun skirt with an elastic band. Let's look at the detailed instructions:
Long semi-sun skirt with belt
First of all, you need to take measurements (waist circumference, maxi length, hip circumference) and write them down.
Sewing process:
- To calculate the width of the fabric cut for the product, you need to add 50 cm to the hip volume.
- To process the bottom edge of the product, add 15 cm to the length.
- As soon as the calculation of the fabric for the half-sun skirt with a belt has been calculated, we begin cutting and sewing.
- The edges of the main cut are ground down to form a pipe shape.
- The upper part is processed with stitching. Stitch size - 5 mm.
- The length of the top should be: hip circumference plus 5 cm.
- Sew the belt to the product.
- The finishing of the bottom depends on the type of fabric.
How to cut a belt for a half-sun skirt:
- The length of the future belt is calculated by adding 5 centimeters to the circumference of the hips.
- The desired width is multiplied by 2, and a couple of centimeters are added to the allowances.
First, draw a belt pattern in the form of a rectangle. The pattern is also duplicated on non-woven fabric. It is equal to half the width of the belt. The dubbing is cut out and glued to the wrong side of the belt.
In order for the workpiece to become arched, it is necessary to pull out all the cuts and iron the fold.
Extra centimeters are added to the belt so that it is possible to make a strap with a buttonhole. The fabric is folded in half and a straight edge is sewn from the wrong side. They make the design of the ribbon. Then turn the belt inside out and iron it. From the inside of the skirt, you need to fold the free edge of the belt and baste.
Instead of a fastener, you can insert an elastic band into such a belt. The strip of the workpiece from the wrong side is closed into a ring and stitched. Turn it inside out and insert an elastic band inside.
After trying on the belt, if everything is satisfactory, it is sewn to the product.
- Before sewing, the fabric must be washed so that the finished product does not shrink after washing.
- Take all measurements carefully.
- The pattern is fixed only on the wrong side of the material.
- Chalk is used to draw lines so that they can be easily washed off.
- Lines are drawn from the wrong side.
- For beginners, to make it easier to draw seam allowances, it is recommended to prepare cardboard blanks of different widths.
- To avoid a large number of distortions, the distance between the needles should not be too small.
- Beginners should avoid materials with patterns; in the process of joining parts, the composition can be disrupted.
- The side seams are sewn at right angles in different directions.
- When stitching, the material should not be bent, it should lie flat.
- In order for the finished product to take the desired shape, you need to hang it on a hanger.
If you understand the given formulas well and follow simple tips, then sewing a new thing will not be difficult.
Cutting a half-sun skirt is very simple, and it can be built directly on the fabric without making any patterns first.
I will tell you how to cut a circle skirt with one seam, and how to calculate the fabric consumption for a circle skirt. I’ll also tell you how to make a half-sun skirt with an elastic band.
So, take the fabric and fold it in half lengthwise (fold along the weft thread). Like this:
We straighten the fabric so that the 2 layers lie flat, without distortions. We align the edges and sections (if the fabric was cut unevenly, the sections do not need to be aligned, otherwise the fabric will warp).
In this way, the entire width of the fabric is available to obtain the length of the skirt.
With a fabric width of 150 cm, 130 cm, you can make it long to the floor.
To build a semi-sun skirt on fabric, you will need to draw 2 arcs. To do this, first calculate the radius of the first arc.
How to calculate a circle skirt
To do this, we take measurements. You only need 2 measurements:
From – waist circumference– using a measuring tape, measure your figure at the level of the waist line (the narrowest part of the figure, or at the level where you will wear the skirt). The tape should run horizontally and fit tightly around the body (not too tight, but not loose either).
Di – skirt length– measure along the side, applying a measuring tape to the waist line, and lowering the end of the tape down with the beginning of the countdown to the level of the desired length of the skirt.
When measuring the length of the skirt, you need to stand straight, not bend over (otherwise the length will be measured incorrectly). Therefore, it is better to stand in front of a mirror and see to what level you lower the end of the tape.
Now let's move on to calculating the radius of the first arc:
R1 = From: 3
For example, From = 80 cm. Then R1 = 80: 3 = 26.7 (rounded).
Radius of the second arc:
R2 = R1 + Di
That is, we simply add Di to the radius of the first arc. For example, if the length of the skirt is 100 cm, R2 = 26.7 + 100 = 126.7 cm. Here, of course, it is easier to round to a whole number - 127 cm.
How to build a half-sun skirt
On the fabric, from the corner with the fold of the fabric, as if from the center, draw the first arc with the calculated radius R1. This will be the waist line.
And then we also draw a second arc - with radius R2. This will be the bottom line of the skirt.
In practice, it is usually inconvenient to carry out these arcs, especially the second arc. And if the half-sun skirt is long, it will be especially inconvenient. There are no compasses of this size :)
Therefore, you need to adapt. Someone can hold a piece of chalk on the end of a measuring tape and, holding the desired tape mark on the corner of the fabric (the center of the arc), draw an arc like that. Some find it convenient to cut the ribbon to the required length, and also, holding a piece of chalk at the end, draw an arc.
I usually just make small marks on the fabric in an arc, at a short distance from each other, and then connect them with a smooth line. It’s more convenient for me, I can do it more accurately. Try it, find your own way to draw these arcs more conveniently for you.
We measure the length of the first arc, and multiply by two (since the fabric is folded in 2 layers, and only half of the skirt is drawn). The result should be a value equal to From + 3...4 cm (excluding the edge, since the edge will need to be cut off).
3...4 cm is a seam allowance, 1.5...2 cm on each side of the seam.
If the length of the arc is shorter, you need to slightly increase R1 and draw the arc lower. If the length of the arc is longer, slightly reduce R1 and draw the arc higher.
We also make sure to measure and check the new arc.
Open up your skirts
To cut the skirt along all sections you need to add allowances.
First, take a long ruler (or cutter's pattern) and draw a straight line along the edge, separating the edge. Then from this line we mark the seam allowance (1.5...2 cm) and draw a parallel straight line.
Then mark the allowances along the waist and hemline. Since this is a half-sun skirt, we allow small allowances of 1...1.5 cm. (The waist and hem lines are not straight, so large allowances will interfere with processing).
After we have noted all the processing allowances, take scissors and carefully cut out the half-sun skirt.
A cut-out circle skirt looks like half a circle, which is what it is.
How to make a circle skirt with elastic
To cut out a half-sun skirt with an elastic band, instead of From, you will need the following measurement:
About – hip circumference– measure your figure at hip level. The measuring tape runs horizontally along the most protruding points of the buttocks.
And when calculating the first arc R1, instead of From, we substitute: (Ob + 2...5 cm).
R1 = (About + 2…5 cm) : 3
How much to add to the hip circumference (from 2 to 5 cm) is chosen at will. If you want the skirt to fit over the hips very loosely and have more gathers at the waist, take closer to 5 cm.
How to calculate how much fabric you need for a full circle skirt
Remembering the calculation of the half-sun skirt, the amount of fabric will be equal to:
Radius lengthR2 x 2
Or in other words:
Skirt length + (Waist circumference/3), and multiply all this by 2
Be sure to take into account the width of the fabric - the width of the fabric must be no less than the length of the radius R2.
And don’t forget to add 10...20 cm for allowances, and possible skew or shrinkage of the fabric (they cut it unevenly in the store, etc.).
As you can see, cutting out a half-sun skirt is very simple and quick. No complex formulas, calculations, patterns :)
I hope this material will help you cut great skirts. Share in the comments))
I wish you success!