Novaya Zarya is a Moscow perfume and cosmetics factory. Domestic perfumery has its own long history. And, of course, the beginning of the Russian perfumery industry was laid by a Frenchman. His name is Henri Brocard. This famous French perfumer arrived in Russia in 1861, and in 1864 founded a factory in Moscow, which is still known today as New Dawn. 
At the end of the 19th century, this factory was the largest in Europe! Since 1925 it has been producing the famous perfume "Krasnaya Moskva". 
Brocard came from a perfume dynasty. His father, Atanas (Atanas), owned a perfume factory and had his own shop on the Champs Elysees in Paris.
Atanas' son Heinrich turned out to be much more fortunate. In the story of this success, as always, "cherche la femme", or "look for a woman." Heinrich Brocard owes a lot of his work to his wife - Charlotte Reve - Belgian by birth, born in Russia and educated in Moscow, she was very familiar with our culture. 
CHARLOTTE AND HEINRICH BROCARD.
Valentin Pikul in the story “The Fragrant Symphony of Life” writes: “The brokars opened a second store on the Exchange Square, and then they had to call the police, because a huge crowd threatened to destroy the doors and smash the windows in order to break through to the counter. The fact is that Charlotte Andreevna came up with an unprecedented surprise. "Sets" were sold for just one ruble: ten perfumery items with the same aromas (perfume, cologne, powder, creams, sachets, lipsticks, etc.) were packed in an elegant box. They managed to sell only two thousand "sets", after which the police, all in the park, ordered to close the store, unable to cope with the pressing crowd. " 
However, at first, at the factory opened by Brocard in Russia, they produced not perfumes at all, but ... perfumed soap. Soap was in short supply at the time. Brocard's soap had an unusual shape, for example, spherical or with printed Russian letters - for children. Then a fountain made of cologne was installed for the public, in which anyone could dip a scarf for free - this was the beginning of the great success of the Brocard Empire. Spirits of "New Dawn" were of excellent quality and were supplied for sale in many European countries. Unfortunately, the 1917 revolution ended the Brocard Empire, but his factory, the famous New Dawn, continued and continues to exist. 
Thanks to the factory, Novaya Zarya Street appeared in Moscow in connection with the planned construction of residential buildings on it for workers and employees of the factory. Until 1929, this name was given to the modern 4th Roshinsky passage. On October 10, 1929, the name was assigned to the street adjacent to the passage, which still bears this name. 
The most famous brainchild of Brocard was the Empress's Favorite Bouquet, published in 1913. Today it is known under the name "Red Moscow". This perfume was created especially for the Grand Duchess Maria Alexandrovna - the last Russian Empress. However, although Krasnaya Moskva is presented as the same Bouquet, there is an opinion that this is not entirely true. The fact is that, apart from Brocard, no one knew the exact composition of "Bouquet", and after his death the exact analogue was never found - Heinrich took it with him to the grave. 
Now Novaya Zarya successfully competes with foreign perfumery companies. Despite the fact that the aromas of "New Dawn" retain excellent quality. 
However, there is always a fly in the ointment in every barrel of honey. Many of today's “New Dawn” perfumes repeat well-known foreign perfumes either in a fragrance or in a bottle. Obviously, such coincidences are not accidental. For example, New Dawn's Green Tea is very similar to Elizabeth Arden's Green Tea. But "White Tea" refers us straight to "Au The Blanc" by Bvlgari. “Gentle Musk” (by the way, a great scent from the wonderful series “Magic of Patchouli”, “Golden Ambergris” and “Gentle Musk”) reminds of “Musk Kublai Khan” by Serge Luten. Kuznetsky Most is a clone of the famous Climat. In “Red Poppy” you can easily recognize “Flower by Kenzo”. And in “White Iris” I personally hear “Anais Anais” from Cacharel. And so on and so forth... 
BOUGHT THESE SPIRITS. FRAGRANCE EXACTLY LIKE CLIMAT. 
I think every person familiar with perfumery can have their own associations. However, all these comparisons do not detract from the quality of the New Dawn perfumery - the aromas are excellent! Perhaps many people will be able to afford to buy exactly these domestic counterparts of foreign perfumes if the prices for imported perfumes seem too high. 
Surely many have already paid attention to billboards on the streets of Moscow, which advertise the perfumery store “Nouvelle Etoile”. This is nothing more than our old friend "New Dawn", only in French, in the Russian-French project. 
Not only Russian, but also French professionals continue to work on the aromas of "New Zarya". This means that the exchange of perfumery experience between our two countries continues. Let's hope that this collaboration will not greatly affect the prices of the long-loved perfumes. 
FOR MEN 
MORE ABOUT RED MOSCOW SPIRITS.
"Krasnaya Moskva" - famous in Soviet times, women's perfume produced by the Moscow factory "Novaya Zarya" (before the revolution - "Brokkar and K"). They contain more than 60 components, the official description of the perfume says: "A delicate, warm, noble scent with a hint of orange blossom." 
Rudolf Arkadyevich Fridman in his book "Perfumery", published in 1955, writes: "Red Moscow is associated with graceful warmth, playful and flirtatious languor, melodic, plastic melodiousness", "the perfume" Red Moscow ", mainly representing a violet complex, the smell itself is quite sentimental, but which, thanks to the change in timbre and the introduction of a number of harmonizing substances, received a special beauty and richness of smell "," Perfume "Krasnaya Moskva", consisting of a mixture of bases of iris, violets, materials and to enhance their subtle scent need a significant proportion of jasmine essence. " Renata Litvinova describes them as "cloying, concentrated ... giving rise to a feeling of normal healthy nostalgia." In 1958 they were awarded a prize at the World Exhibition in Brussels. 
According to a less popular version, the Krasnaya Moskva perfume was created in the mid-1920s. with the participation of Polina Zhemchuzhina (wife of the future People's Commissar V.M. Molotov) and are not directly related to pre-revolutionary aromas, since at that time the corresponding ingredients were not yet used in perfumery. 
The urban legend about the special similarity of the fragrances Krasnaya Moskva and Chanel No. 5 is also widespread. At the same time, either Soviet perfumes are interpreted as an attempt by the Soviet perfumery industry to copy the famous French scent, or it is argued that the French scent was synthesized by Ernest Beau (who worked in Moscow before the revolution) on the basis of the Empress's Bouquet.
The salon-shop is located on the first floor, the Museum - on the second. Here are exhibits that have accumulated over a century and a half. The exposition was also supplemented by the State Historical Museum. The exposition of the museum consists of two small rooms - the first is dedicated to the art of perfumery and its peculiarities from the 11th to the 20th centuries, but there are also more ancient rarities; the second reveals the history of the Novaya Zarya factory from the moment of its foundation to the present day.
The main exhibit is the glover! It was thanks to simple hawkers of gloves that wealthy citizens had free access to fragrances: leather things did not always smell pleasant and so that noble noses would not suffer, they were sold gloves with all kinds of de colony - eau de cologne (fr) - in other words, cologne (colonial or cologne water).
In the showcases, there are huge - sometimes almost human-sized - bottles in which the notorious cologne was poured precisely for hygienic purposes: they didn't wash too much, and even Napoleon himself used 30 gallons a month for cleanliness for the sake of cleanliness. Moreover, the bubonic plague added its contribution to the hygiene business, and they had to wear leather goods in large quantities: here the fragrant rivers of cologne flowed.
Egyptian balsamarium - the oldest exhibit of the exposition - is more than 2000 years old. Medieval aromas and incense holders, luxurious dressing items of fashionistas of the 16th - 18th centuries (among them Madame Pompadour's garters, with embroidered recommendations on how to powder).
At the end of the exposition in hall No. 1 there is a distillation apparatus for oils using the distillation method; steam distillation (a steam jet is passed through the raw material heated in the distillation still).
There are also unusual things .. Spectator pipes of the eighteenth century. Ladies were supposed to sob when watching plays, where passions were in full swing. But not everyone could give out the right amount of tears at the right time. Therefore, the spectators brought tubes to their eyes - a crystal bottle with an eye-binoculars in the middle and smelling salt inside. I breathed in a pungent aroma and - tears flow with the required frequency.
A stand with aromas - this is where you can smell everything we know about: lily of the valley, ginger, musk, incense, patchouli ... A huge amount of aromatic natural scents that are not sold either in pharmacies or in stores. In our age, when a perfume composition consists of 70% unnatural ingredients, plunge into the world of real smells is worth a lot.
Hall 2 contains the history of the "Brocard and Co. Partnership" factory, that is how "New Zarya" was called at the time of its foundation. In 1864, a scent factory was founded by a hereditary aroma connoisseur from France, Heinrich Brocard, and after the 1917 revolution. the factory was nationalized and renamed into Zamoskvoretsky perfume and soap factory №5. The faceless name did not catch on, and in 1922, at the suggestion of the chief perfumer August Michel (who had worked at the enterprise since the time of Brocard), it became "New Dawn".
Brocard was the first to start making advertising kits, which included small samples of his products (the same "samplers", in the twentieth century, will be adopted by perfumers all over the world). Judging by the marvelous beauty of the bottles, Brocard worked with the best glaziers in Russia and Europe.
There is no guide (all the guides were fired recently) sad! - it's not so interesting without them, now the sales consultant is leading the story (from the 1st floor of the store). My friend and I were the only ones in the museum.
The tour to the Perfume Museum is completely free! They also strictly warned that photos are prohibited !! I am publishing a photo of the sign at the entrance.
MUSEUM: Tue-Sat from 10 am to 7 pm, Sun from 10 am to 6 pm, Mon - day off.
SHOP: Mon-Sat from 10 to 20, Sun from 10 to 19
👁 Do we book the hotel as always on the booking? In the world, not only Booking exists (🙈 for a horse percentage from hotels - we pay!) I have been practicing Rumguru for a long time, it is really more profitable than Booking.
Class: Mass-Market, Middle-Market, Natural
Country Russia
Price range:100 – 15 00 rub
Official site: http://novzar.ru/shop/
The brand "Novaya Zarya" (Moscow) produces perfumed products of three classes:
- Classic, where it is customary to include such aromas as "Krasnaya Moskva" or "Elena".
- Modern, which have been produced for a couple of years, and then taken out of production, like Kuznetsky Most or Minx.
- Limited edition, issued in several batches like "Persian Lilac".
In addition, the factory is actively working on the production of cosmetic and decorative cosmetics. Its lines are divided into men and women. Nail care products are presented in the Lux and Standard class.
How it all began
153 years ago, the hereditary perfumer Heinrich Brocard came up with a brilliant idea - to create his own enterprise where he would produce soap. And in the same year he brought his idea to life - the first bars of cheap soap rolled off the assembly line, each of which had a letter of the alphabet. Baby soap went with a bang. But Heinrich himself was in no hurry to stop, on the contrary, already in the 70s of the last century he released a series of products related to high perfumery: perfumes and colognes. For several years, his company became the leader of the Russian market of those times, and gradually it takes pride of place and abroad.
The revolution of 1917 did not bypass the factory - it was transferred to state ownership and renamed, it received a new name - soap factory at number 5. 5 years later, the country's leadership transferred the factory to Gosznak, and since November it began to be referred to as "New Dawn" - the plant perfumery and soap products.
Nouvelle Etoile is a trade mark of "Novaya Zarya"
Prominent figures in the world of perfumery from France took an active part in the development of new generation products. The largest contributions were made by Michel Almarak and Francis Camay. They were the ones who created the fragrances in their laboratories that allowed Novaya Zara to receive many international awards. The models of packages and bottles got their shape thanks to the light hand of the designer from France - Thierry de Bashmakoff. And since the beginning of autumn 2004, such partnership activities have brought results - the Nouvelle Etoile trademark has been registered.
Despite the sharp turn in the history of the company, its management strictly monitors that all products comply with international standards and traditions introduced by Heinrich Brocard. Thanks to the documentation accumulated since his time, many aromas of the past have been preserved, which have harmoniously passed into the popular novelties of Nouvelle Etoile.
Now on the territory of our country, the company's products can be bought in 38 stores of the Nouvelle Etoile network, which are located in 31 cities. And if in 2006, which became the impetus for the development of the network, perfumes could only be bought here, now you just need to go to the website of the factory's online store.
Products
Its more than 1000 items. From perfumed deodorants and fresheners in cars to limited edition and Classic perfumes. All products are natural raw materials. For example, a series of cosmetics for skin care "Russian Beauty" will help to preserve youth thanks to natural and well-chosen ingredients. This super-revitalizing face serum contains cornflower extract to help reduce swelling and help restore wrinkle-free skin to the skin.
For many decades it was generally accepted that real perfumes were made only in France. Of course, the art of French perfumers is unmatched, and yet high-quality perfumery is produced in many countries, including Russia. Many women, for example, undeservedly ignore the New Zarya perfumes, while some of the perfumery samples of this factory are in no way inferior to the French ones.
The history of "New Dawn"
The Novaya Zarya factory was founded in 1864 by the Frenchman Heinrich Brocard. Of course, the name was different then: the enterprise received a new "revolutionary" name in 1922. In the interval between the October Revolution and the renaming into "Novaya Zarya", the factory bore the unattractive name "Perfume and soap-making plant No. 5".
Like other perfumes of that time, "Persian Lilac" was distinguished by a simple composition, which, however, did not prevent the fragrance from becoming popular not only in the Russian Empire, but also abroad.
After the revolution the perfume "Krasnaya Moskva" brought fame to the factory. This fragrance, extremely popular in the middle of the 20th century, is still produced today. There are no people indifferent to this perfume: some consider it hopelessly outdated and tasteless, while others are sure that this classic scent is truly luxurious and will never go out of fashion.
At the beginning of the 21st century, Novaya Zarya began to produce products in collaboration with French perfumers under the Nouvelle Etoile brand. New luxury fragrances appeared at a higher price than before, and increased attention was paid to perfume packaging.
The New Dawn Phenomenon
Soviet women did not have much choice: French and even Polish perfumes were not so easy to get hold of, and Novaya Zarya's products were affordable. Comparatively inexpensive and very persistent fragrances were popular: probably every woman in the Soviet Union had a bottle of "Red Moscow" or "Zlata of the Scythians".
The "iron curtain" was opened, and women of fashion were able to purchase any foreign fragrances. In most cases, however, inexperienced customers were offered crude fakes, but soon the real works of French perfumers became quite accessible. However, despite all this abundance, many in the twenty-first century continue to use the products of the Novaya Zarya factory with pleasure. What is the secret of the popularity of these perfumes?
Conventionally, the products of Novaya Zarya can be divided into three groups:
- Classical fragrances ("Red Moscow", "Gold of the Scythians", "Elena" and other famous perfumes);
- Fashionable fragrances (a series of fragrances that have been produced for several years and then discontinued. This group includes the perfumes "Sweetheart", "Minx", "Kuznetsky Most" and others);
- Limited editions (only one or two batches of such perfumes are produced, for example, "Persian Lilac" - a copy of one of the very first fragrances by Heinrich Brocard).
Why do they love Novaya Zarya?
The products of "Novaya Zarya" have many advantages. First of all, the advantages include, of course, the price: the original products of the oldest perfume factory are often cheaper than primitive counterfeits made in artisanal conditions.
"New Zarya" offers a huge assortment of perfumes, and the aromas are diverse, which means that every woman will be able to find "her" perfume. It is not unimportant that the smells of New Zarya perfumes are mostly very persistent: a few drops of perfume are enough to smell fragrant for hours.
Disadvantages of "Novaya Zarya" perfumery
The perfumery of the famous factory also has drawbacks - perhaps it is they that prevent the company from gaining international popularity. So, due to the lack of advertising, most of the new products remain unknown to ordinary buyers. The advertising that exists gives a very vague idea of the product, which also does not contribute to the popularity of fragrances. The same can be said about perfume names, which are often not very successful. For example, names like "Sweetheart in the afternoon" or "Scandal" cause confusion.
Very often, the Novaya Zarya factory is accused of cloning well-known "promoted" fragrances.
For example, the Kuznetsky Most scent in a white package is almost identical to Lancome's Climat, while Green Tea and Pepper Tea are suspiciously reminiscent of Elizabeth Arden's perfumes. There are many such examples, according to consumers. Moreover, in most cases, the aromas of "New Dawn" are inferior to the originals. Despite the fact that the Novaya Zarya factory gives its customers the opportunity to purchase analogues of well-known and fashionable perfumes at a ridiculous price, such copying of aromas does not suit the oldest perfume factory with a rich history.
Another disadvantage of the factory's products is, oddly enough, its inaccessibility. In many cities of Russia it is easier to buy an original French perfume than perfume from the Novaya Zarya factory. And the fragrances of limited editions are not repeated, which causes a lot of criticism from those who liked this perfumery.
The packaging also often causes dissatisfaction. It is clear that the low prices are explained by the minimal costs for the production of bottles and boxes for them, and yet defiantly cheap plastic lopsided lids and bottles, devoid of any individuality, are not to everyone's liking. However, there are also exceptions, for example, charming vintage bottles from the Gemstones series.
Maria Bykova
At one time, the founder of the factory, now known as "New Zarya", complained that domestic perfumes were not taken seriously - everyone was chasing after the French. Over the past century and a half, the situation has changed little. However, in light of the current market situation, Novaya Zarya looks more attractive, if only because it does not raise prices as rapidly as its Western counterparts. The former cost, of course, does not remain - after all, the factory works closely with French laboratories and buys a lot from them.
Before “tasting” the perfumes of “Novaya Zarya”, it would be interesting to know about its past!
Brocard and Co
The history of the largest perfumery factory in Russia began in 1864 with ... a penny soap.
When the hereditary French perfumer Heinrich Brocard opened his soap factory in Moscow, things did not go straight ahead. At first, the soap was brewed in the former stable, and besides Brocard himself, there were only two assistants on the staff. The profit was paltry. But once the perfumer (as it is believed, at the suggestion of his wife) decided to make souvenir soap: one kind in the form of animals, another with letters, the third in the form of vegetables. Fathers of families gladly brought such gifts from the fair to children and wives.
By the early 1970s, Brocard had earned enough to move on to the production of perfumes and colognes. In 1873 he became a court supplier. All Moscow smelled of cologne "Flower", a year they produced a million bottles. And for the "Persian Lilac" Brocard received a Gold Medal in Paris, leaving behind his French colleagues.
After the death of the founder, the empire passed to his wife Charlotte, then to his son. At that time, the talented perfumer August Michel worked at the factory, who invented the fragrance "The Empress's Favorite Bouquet". This perfume has existed for over a century, only under a different name. Can you guess which one? Yes, this is exactly Krasnaya Moskva, the most famous aroma of Novaya Zarya!
New Dawn
After the revolution, the Brokar & Co factory was nationalized and christened the State Soap Factory No. 5. Three years later, the unappetizing name was changed to "New Dawn".
The assortment was based on soap-making products, but since 1922 the production of perfumery was re-established. Paying tribute to the "red" theme (perfumes "October", "Paris Commune"), perfumers listened to the voices of nature ("Lily of the valley", "Wonderful lilac", "Cyclamen"), and the whisper of feelings ("Loves, does not love", " Ninon").
The USSR has its own chypre fragrance - cologne "Chypre". Another legend is "Triple". The production of "The Empress's Favorite Bouquet" had been established since 1925 (of course, now the bottle was written "Red Moscow").
"Red Poppy" celebrated the first anniversary of the October Revolution, and by the Pushkin days, three new items were released at once: "The Tale of the Fisherman and the Fish", "The Tale of Tsar Saltan" and "The Queen of Spades".
The factory responded to any significant event in the history of the country with fresh releases. "Jubilee" spirits, "Shield and Sword", "Triumph" marked the anniversary of the army, and a new cologne "Vostok" was timed to coincide with the first space flight. Theatrical ("Great Artist", "Debut", "Mask") and Olympic themes ("Olympian" and "Bear") are also traced. Someone sunk into the soul of the "Lights of Moscow", someone - "Evening", someone "Waltz of the Flowers" ...
Nouvelle etoile
Cooperation with French laboratories became a new stage. The company is proud that perfumers Michel Almarak and Francis Camay participated in the creation of some of the fragrances, and Thierry de Bashmakoff came up with the bottles. Russian-French cooperation has become official since 2004, when the Nouvelle Etoile brand appeared.
Among the most popular fragrances today are:
- "Gold of the Scythians" - honey, with herbal, apple, ylang undertones;
- Kuznetsky Most ("Kuznetsky Most") - autumn-spring, creamy powdery, with velvet padding. Often compared to Lancome Climat;
- The Vert ("Green tea") - a cool tea-lemon "drink" for hot days, - light, unsweetened. "New Dawn" is often accused of imitating Western bestsellers, and this time one cannot but recall the eponymous fragrance "Elizabeth Arden", which is similar even in packaging. But which one is better - a student or a teacher? - you decide;
- La Belle de Russie ("Russian beauty"): sweetish peach-apricot mix for cold days;
- Follow Me Day "Follow Me Day" - feminine cocktail with roses and irises;
- the citrus Eau Jeune seems to many to be very close to what was sold in the 80s;
- floral green unisex White Tea with bergamot and freesia;
- chypre Tete-A-Tete, which came from Soviet times;
- Renommee (rose, apple, greenery).
And most importantly, after a long break, Krasnaya Moskva has been published for several years now. Will the future of Novaya Zarya be as loud as its past? Time will show.